University student Liang Mei spoke passionately about her love for Hanfu. The beauty of Hanfu lies in its historical sedimentation, its cultural connotations, and most importantly, the sentiment of patriotism it represents. It includes engaging with the customs, stories, and values that Hanfu represents. Embodying centuries-old traditions and values unique to Chinese civilization, Hanfu has transcended mere a fashion statement. Like other fashion subcultures, the emphasis is always on the clothing and the visuals not associated with the fashion are based on other aesthetics, such as Dollcore, Kawaii, or Gothic. If the personal wardrobe consists of tops and trousers, skirts and frocks here are a brand new addition. The look also consists of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called a chang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reaches the knees. Apart from these, ancient Han Chinese were also accessorized with tassels and jade pendants or various ornaments hung from the belt or sash, known as Pei (珮). Hanfu, by its definition, was born at the beginning of the history of the Han ethnicity.
Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia. I sincerely hope more people will come to appreciate Hanfu and China’s outstanding traditional culture. Some dresses are popular and worn by people in different dynasties, some are just a flash in the pan. The development of qizhuang, including the precursor of the cheongsam, is closely related to the development and the changes of the Manchu Nationality (and their ancestors) throughout centuries, potentially including the Yilou people in the Warring States Period, the Sushen people in the Pre-Qin period, the Wuji people in the Wei and Jin period, the Mohe people from the Sui and Tang dynasties, and the Nuzhen (known as Jurchen) in the Liao, Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties. Hanfu, Cheongsam, Tang suit, Zhongshan suit, and customs of the minority ethnics. Hanfu, whose name is derived from the Chinese meaning “Han people’s clothing,” encompasses all types and styles of traditional clothing worn by the Han Chinese. Zhiduo is a more casual style of Hanfu, featuring a loose robe that provides comfort and ease of movement. So, as interest in traditional cultural pursuits comes back around, is the past becoming cool once more? For many, Hanfu represents more than just traditional attire – it is a canvas that depicts the rich tapestry of Chinese civilization.
Women’s clothes became more relaxed and revealing than their previous counterparts, owing to women being less restricted by the Confucian ethical codes. It was popular in China from the 1920s to 1960s, overlapping with the Republican era, and was popularized by Chinese socialites and high society women in Shanghai. During the 1920s to 1930s, it was called the Mandarin Gown and was popularized by upper-class women in Shanghai. Such clothing consisted of similar long robes for both men and women and was known as Changpao. For a period of time, under the dynastic laws after 1636, all Han Chinese were forced under the penalty of death to adopt the Manchu male hairstyle, the queue, and dress in Manchu Changpao instead of traditional Han Chinese clothing. The rulers used an administrative division called the “Eight Banner system.” Originally, only the Manchu households were organized within this system, but over them, Mongols and Han Chinese were incorporated. Through these acts of resistance and preservation, Hanfu remained a vital part of the Han Chinese identity, silently defying the cultural dominance of the Qing rulers and keeping the rich tapestry of Han culture alive.
The Han Chinese trace their common ancestry to the Huaxia, the name given to the initial confederation of agricultural tribes living along the Yellow River. A form of shan which appeared in the Han and Wei period was a new type of gown which had equal front pieces which were straight instead of being jiaolingyouren and was fastened with a string; it was also a form of unlined upper garment with straight sleeves and wide cuffs. There is a pair of ties at the small placket and two pairs of ties on the large placket which is used for closing the garment. In the subculture, there is a belief that there is a proper way of wearing the fashion, and a wrong one. While they’re in high demand, the wait for their one of a kind pieces are definitely worth it! Beizi is a kind of long shirt between the Ru and robe, with slits on both sides and knee-length, usually made of silk, light and see-through. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperor’s consort, Leizu. The term Huaxia represents the collective Neolithic confederation of the agricultural tribes Hua and Xia who settled along the Central Plains around the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River in northern China.
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